Deosai

Deosai is a high plateau of rolling grassland between Skardu and the Astore valley, at an average height of a little over 4,000 metres. For most of the year it lies under snow. In the short summer the snow melts into streams and shallow lakes, and the plains turn green and then fill with wildflowers.

The plateau is a national park, created in 1993 to protect the Himalayan brown bear, which still lives here alongside golden marmots, foxes and many birds. There are no towns and no permanent villages: only sky, grass, water and a ring of distant peaks.

Deosai is open only when the snow allows, typically from June to September and sometimes into October. We confirm the road with the local authorities before including it.

Places to visit

• Sheosar LakeA deep blue lake at the western edge of the plains, with Nanga Parbat visible beyond it on a clear day.
• Bara PaniThe widest river crossing on the plateau, where camps are pitched in summer.
• Kala PaniA dark, clear stream on the Skardu side, a common first stop.
• Sadpara LakeThe lake passed on the climb from Skardu to the plains.

Things to do

• A day crossing by 4x4
• Wildflower and landscape photography
• Looking for marmots and, with luck, a distant brown bear
• A picnic by the water

Good to know

The altitude is felt by almost everyone: move slowly, drink water, and tell us about any heart or breathing condition before we plan this day. The weather turns quickly and it is cold even in midsummer. A park entry fee applies, and foreign visitors should carry their passports.